Frederick M. Hueston

Oh, that awful dirty grout; you've tried everything and it just refuses to come clean. Most grout becomes soiled by grease and water-based stains. In order to remove dirt, it needs to be cleaned with two different cleaners: One to remove grease and oil and the other to remove water-based soil. The secret recipe The following is my secret recipe for cleaning grout. You will need two chemicals — sulfamic acid and a good wax floor stripper. Sulfamic acid can be purchased at most home centers and can also be found at tile supply companies. An alkaline-based floor wax stripper can be found at your local janitorial supply house. The process Sweep the floor thoroughly, removing any loose dirt, dust, etc. For showers and walls, wipe with a dry rag. Mop the floor with warm water and a good floor cleaner, or ammonia. Use a clean rag and the same chemical for showers and walls. Mix a solution of the alkaline stripper and warm water in a bucket, making sure to follow the directions on the bottle. Apply a small amount of this solution to the grout. Allow it to stand for several minutes and agitate with a scrub brush, toothbrush or similar type tool. Apply additional solution if it begins to dry. Pick up excess solution with a mop or a wet-vacuum. Rinse the grout with plain warm water. Mix a solution of sulfamic acid with warm water per directions on the label. Apply the acid solution to the grout and agitate. Rinse the grout several times with clean water and allow to dry overnight. Once dry, seal the grout with a good, penetrating sealer. If the above technique does not work, the grout will either need to be removed and replaced, or, if the grout is sound and not falling apart, it can be re-colored. Note of caution: Sulfamic acid will damage marble surfaces. Removing and replacing grout If you need to remove and replace grout, don''t worry. The process is not that difficult, but it requires a little patience and know-how. Here is your know-how, but you will need to supply the patience, and the elbow grease! You will need the following inexpensive tools: A hand held grout saw, which can be purchased at most home centers, hardware stores or tile supply houses for a few dollars. A grout float, which also costs only a few dollars. I prefer the type with the rubber face, but any grout float will work. Getting out the grout Remove the grout by working the grout saw in a back and forth motion until you have removed more than half the grout. It is not necessary to remove all the grout, as long as you remove about one-quarter of an inch, minimum. Once the desired amount of grout is removed, vacuum all the grout and dust from the floor or wall. Now, check for loose tile and reset these before re-grouting. The next step: Replacement It is important to choose the proper grout. For walls and grout joints one-eighth of an inch or smaller, use un-sanded grout. For floors and grout joints more than one-eighth of an inch, use a sanded grout. Be sure to use caution when grouting marble tile, as unsanded grout can scratch the surface. Place the grout in a bucket, add water and mix into a thick, smooth consistency (not too soupy). Add more dry grout powder if the mixture has an excessively soupy texture. Some grout needs to sit several minutes and then be remixed before using. Check the manufacturer''s directions. Now, apply the grout with the grout float and work it into the joints, making sure they are full. It helps to pack the grout into the joints by pressing hard on the grout float. Once all of the grout joints are full, hold the float at a 45-degree angle and move it diagonally across the grout joint to remove excess. It''s best to work in small sections so the grout doesn''t dry too quickly. Once all tiles are grouted, wipe the whole surface with a clean, wet sponge. It will be necessary to rinse several times. I prefer using two buckets and two sponges, but be sure to change the water often. Allow the grout to sit at least 24 hours. Occasionally a light film will be present after the grout dries. Remove it by buffing with a clean, dry cloth. Avoid walking on the floor or using the shower for at least 24 hours. Sealing grout In order to keep your new or newly cleaned grout pristine, it should be sealed. There are so many sealers on the market today. Which ones are best? Which ones really work? It can be very confusing trying to choose a sealer to protect grout; in the past several years, hundreds of products to seal and protect grout have flooded the market. Fortunately, all of these products fall into two major categories: Coatings Impregnators, or penetrating sealers Coatings Coatings are sealers that place a sacrificial coating on the surface of the grout. This film lies on top of the grout, acting as a barrier to prevent water, oil and dirt from entering the pores. Coatings can be classified into two general types: Strippable Permanent Strippable coatings are designed to be easily stripped or removed from the surface of the grout. These coatings are made from polymers consisting of acrylics, styrene, polyethylene and others, and are usually water-based. Many janitorial products are water-based, polymer-type coatings. To identify these coatings, look for terms on the label, such as, "metal cross link", "high solids", "high speed", "acrylic", "thermoplastic", etc. When in doubt, ask. There are hundreds of different strippable coatings. Permanent coatings are very difficult to remove. Made from solvent-based polymers, such as polyurethane, epoxies, etc., they are not recommended for grout. Impregnators Impregnators are designed to penetrate below the surface of the grout and deposit solid particles into the pores or coat individual minerals below the surface so water,

Follow CMM

Frederick M. Hueston

Director of the National Training Center (NTC) for Stone & Masonry Trades

Articles by Frederick M. Hueston

Tile and grout: Tough problems, simple solutions

Restrooms

View the Latest CMM Magazine Edition